What a chef’s tour of Central America can teach us about offshore aquaculture in the United States
What could the future of offshore aquaculture in the US look like? This question was at the forefront of my mind as I joined the team from the Coalition for Sustainable Aquaculture on a trip to Central America. Our purpose was to investigate the positive examples of offshore aquaculture in this region and explore the potential for replication in the US.
The trip, organized by BioMar, one of the industry’s leading feed manufacturers, brought together a diverse team of experts and sustainable seafood advocates. I was joined by renowned chef, author, and longtime seafood champion, Barton Seaver (who I totally fangirled over meeting!).
Also joining us was Chef Steve Phelps, owner of Indigenous Restaurant in Florida, known for its commitment to sustainable aquaculture.
Both chefs are members of the Coalition for Sustainable Aquaculture, a group of environmental advocates, industry leaders, and award-winning chefs, united in their dedication to promote sustainable and equitable aquaculture in US waters.
We were also joined by Tim Deckner and Thomas Stampe Petersen, Danish divers and underwater photographers who were responsible for capturing all the underwater magic around the offshore farms.
Our journey took us to Panama and Costa Rica, where we visited three offshore farms: Open Blue Cobia farm, Forever Oceans Kanpachi farm, and AquaFoods Rose Snapper farm.
When asked about her decision to organize this offshore aquaculture tour, Katherine Bryar, the Global Marketing Director at BioMar, simply stated, "Seeing is believing." She believes that for offshore mariculture farming to thrive in the US Gulf, chefs needed to incorporate these alternative species into their menus, generating consumer demand. What better way to encourage chefs to put the fish on their menu than bringing them out to Central America to see where they’re produced?!
Our first stop was Open Blue, where we got to see what it’s like to farm fish in a true open ocean environment. For Chef Steve, the cobia farm was a particularly special visit. “As a chef, I was particularly excited about visiting this farm since cobia is a bestseller on my menu.” he shared with me. “Ever since Indigenous Restaurant opened in 2001, I have been impressed with the quality of cobia from Open Blue. It has remained a popular item, and I have experimented with various cooking techniques, each one surpassing expectations.”
While good quality, delicious food is obviously a key component of being a chef, so is responsible sourcing and knowing where your food comes from. It’s something I’ve spoken about at length on my channels; there is something special about having a deeper connection with where your food comes from.
Chef Steve also shared with me what it meant for him as a chef to be able to go straight to the source and see where one of his favourite products was being produced.. “Reflecting on the emotional experience of witnessing the offshore farms up close, I must admit that tears welled up in my eyes throughout the journey. From the moment we departed from the dock, I was grateful for my sunglasses, concealing the visible impact it had on me. As a chef, few things bring me such a sense of fulfillment. Visiting a farmer, fisher, or producer can be a profound experience, confirming that the information I have been sharing with my staff, customers, and guests is not only real but also aligns with the right principles.”
After Open Blue, we ventured to the north of Panama to explore Forever Oceans' kanpachi farm. This newer operation produces delicious and buttery kanpachi, with a carbon footprint 20% smaller than that of salmon. The more sheltered conditions allowed us to snorkel among 80,000 spirited kanpachi fish in the pens. We ended the day with a beachside cookout, where we had the opportunity to prepare kanpachi using various methods.
Our final destination was AquaFoods, a renowned company in Quepos, Costa Rica, specializing in marine fish processing and mariculture. They focus on rose snapper and tilapia, aiming to reshape consumer perceptions of seafood. AquaFoods believes their responsible farming methods result in a premium seafood experience, even for tilapia, challenging the preconceived notions associated with the fish's taste and quality.
This trip held immense significance, considering the ongoing conversations surrounding offshore aquaculture expansion in the United States. At the time of writing, the AQUAA Act and SEAfood Act are being deliberated in Congress. These bills aim to establish permitting regulations, encourage federal support for research and data collection, and lay the groundwork for offshore aquaculture in the US. Equipped with newfound knowledge and real-life experiences in sustainable offshore aquaculture, our chef team hopes to support America's expansion into this field.
One aspect that stood out during this journey was the role these companies play in shaping policy and regulation within their own countries. Witnessing this firsthand in Panama and Costa Rica reinforced the belief that chefs have a responsibility to advocate for sustainable aquaculture and support the development of aquaculture in the United States. As a global leader, the US has a crucial role to play in advancing responsibly produced seafood.
Aquaculture remains a contentious topic, particularly in the US. However, the tide is turning, especially as the need for increased domestic food production becomes more urgent. For me, supporting sustainable aquaculture is a logical choice. Living next to the ocean, I witness its gradual deterioration and depletion daily. Red tides, pollution, overfishing—the list goes on. We have proven that when done right, aquaculture can be a chef's best friend. It offers high-quality, premium fish consistently delivered without significant price fluctuations. This is the "dream" menu we all aspire to have. Although the US already boasts exceptional farms cultivating top-notch fish, the scale remains limited, leading to potential supply constraints.
As I reflect on my culinary journey over the years, this trip provided an opportunity to reevaluate my perception of aquaculture. In the late '90s and early '00s, I proudly opposed aquaculture, except for farmed bivalves. Looking back, I realize that my criticisms lacked context and a comprehensive understanding of the potential benefits aquaculture could offer to the broader food system, encompassing land animal proteins and wild seafood. While I do not regret my past advocacy, as it stemmed from genuine passion, I now acknowledge my limited perspective and information. Experiencing firsthand some of the products and production methods I once deemed "Farmed and Dangerous" has been eye-opening.
Armed with our firsthand experiences, the members of the Coalition for Sustainable Aquaculture return to the United States with a mission. We hope to utilize our knowledge to demonstrate to consumers and decision-makers how offshore aquaculture can be responsibly conducted and the benefits it can bring to our own shores.
